Our second day in Portland was our wine-tasting trip to the
Willamette Valley. We woke early, got a quick breakfast and coffee and hit the road to travel to our first destination,
Brick House Vineyards, located in the town of Newberg, about an hour southwest of Portland. This is a small winery, producing wines from Chardonnay, Gamay, and, of course (being Oregon), Pinot Noir grapes. Tastings here are by appointment only in the morning and we were lucky enough to score one with only 2 days notice. Arriving, one is greeted with a gravelly drive which ends at a picturesque brick house and a large wood barn, which serves as the wine making and storage facility.
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The "Wine Barn" at Brick House Vineyards |
We were about a half hour early for our appointment, but Steve, our host and tasting guide, was very laid back and began our experience early. We first took a stroll in the vineyard and saw the ripening clusters of pinot noir grapes on the vines. This has been a cool summer for Oregon and the harvest is going to be late this year, which is tense situation for winemakers in the region. You see, they have to balance between the fruits being mature enough to have sufficient flavor and sugar, and the start of the rainy season. If it rains too much before the grapes are harvested, the grapes can puff up with water, losing flavor potency, or even burst, rendering them useless. Let's hope that everything works out, because the wines in this region are awesome, and the people we met were all super nice!
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Barrel Room at Brick House Vineyards |
After learning a bit about winemaking and weather, Steve brought us inside to see the barrel room. For the pinot noir, they use new French Oak, while for the Chardonnay, neutral oak is used. After a couple of years, oak barrels lose their "potency" and no longer impart much of a woody flavor to the wine. - this is how neutral oak barrels come to be. It was explained that they use neutral oak on their Chardonnay so that the fruit is not overwhelmed by the oak (certainly a problem that you will encounter with many Chardonnays around the country). Our tasting experience consisted of the Chardonnay, and 2 pinot noirs. The Chardonnay was the highlight for CW and me. We have found ourselves the past few years moving away from Chardonnay precisely because of the aforementioned "over-Oaky" problem that many can suffer from. But this white was delicious, with tons of fruit and floral aroma, and a smooth, buttery finish, without any biting oak notes. We learned that the buttery finish some Chardonnays have is due to
malolactic fermentation in the barrel. In this process, tart malic acid is converted to softer, smoother lactic acid in the barrel, resulting in a smoother tasting wine. This process does not occur as readily in stainless steel barrels, explaining why non-oaked wines are often more tart with green apple notes.
OK, science lesson over. The Chardonnay was fantastic, one of our favorites in quite some time. The pinot noirs were good too, though not as full and fruit-forward as someone from California is used to tasting. While they had an amazingly fruity aroma, the reds started out a little bit tart before opening up to lingering fruit flavors. I think they may benefit from a bit of aging or decanting before they are optimal for this particular
impeccable palate. We ordered a half case to be shipped: 4 Chardonnay and 2 pinot noir. Can't wait! We thanked Steve for the great experience and hit the road to
Winderlea, which was recommended while at Brick House.
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Vineyards at Winderlea |
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Driving to Winderlea, one crests a hill that looks out over miles of vineyard with Mount Hood in the distance. It is a postcard-like vista, but alas a short-lived one, as I missed the opportunity to stop the car and get a good shot of it. But photography was not the primary concern on this day. No, my friends, it was tasting good wine. And in this regard, Winderlea did not disappoint. Here, we tasted a Chardonnay, which was excellent, and several pinot noirs from 2007 - 2009. All were delicious, though I lack the recall to describe specifics on any given bottle. In the end, we purchased a 2007 Estate Pinot Noir. The pinot at Winderlea was softer and more "easy drinking" that then ones at Brick House had been. Please keep in mind, this is not in any way saying one is better than the other. I am no authority on wine, and can just relate that which is pleasing to me and CW.
At Winderlea I had begun sharing some of my tastes with CW, who was not driving. Consequently, she was in need of a bit of a break after Winderlea and we drove to the town of
McMinnville (which Steve had recommended as a lunch destination) for some food. After walking around the main drag a bit we decided to eat at
Bistro Maison, a cute French restaurant with outdoor seating so that we could enjoy the beautiful day. CW got a chicken salad with greens, dried cherries, and roasted beets, and I ordered the pasta of the day, which was penne with house-cured salmon and a cream sauce. Both were delicious. My pasta had tons of salmon, and the cream sauce was flavorful without being too heavy. The cured salmon pieces cut the cream nicely, and were not so salty as to hide the flavor of the fish. CW's dish was special - I couldn't believe the size of the grilled chicken breast on atop the salad. The dried cherries and beets offered a great sweet contrast with the savory chicken. We were happy, we were full, and we were ready to resume drinking wine!
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Chicken Salad with Beets and Dried Cherries |
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Penne with Cured Salmon and Cream Sauce |
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View at Anne Amie |
While eating lunch, our waitress had recommended a winery called
Anne Amie, which would be very close to
Soter Vineyards, where we had a 4:30 tasting appointment. Anne Amie, while a delightful name, also is a delightful place to visit. The grounds are beautiful, with stunning views all around. The tasting room is spacious and bright, and the wines are good, particularly the whites. The pinot noir was very good here as well, but the whites are memorable in that they were quite unique. We first tasted their Riesling, which was bright and flavorful, but not sweet, like so many Rieslings can be. Then we moved on the Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris (which I believe is the same as the Italian pinot grigio grape). One of those two, the Pinot Gris, I think, had an unusual off-white color - kind of like a hint of rose without being a rose wine. I commented on this and was told that the skins of the grape are allowed to stay on a day longer than with normal white wines, lending a hint of color to the wine. Both these white pinot varietals were crisp, floral and fruity, without being too sweet. We ended up getting a six pack of mixed whites shipped to our home! Gotta start emptying our wine fridge to make some room - shouldn't be a problem.
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Views from Soter Driveway |
Our last stop of the day was
Soter Vineyards. I had learned of this winery just the day before, as it was written up as the producer of one of the top 50 pinot noirs in Oregon. We were lucky in that the folks at Brick House Vineyards had been able to call over to Soter and arrange for a 4:30 tasting appointment. It is appointment only at this beautiful winery, but there is no tasting fee! Once we found the entrance (it is just a small address sign next to a long gravel drive), we were rewarded with a picturesque drive up to the winery.
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Soter Tasting Room |
The tasting room is idyllic; it's a modern barn-like building on a hilltop with great vistas all around. We later learned that this space also serves as a second home to the Soter family. The building has a huge great room, with garage doors open on either side, so that you get a fresh cross breeze and natural light as you enjoy the tasting experience.
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Big Mac! |
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Inside the Soter Tasting Room |
Before we got inside, CW and I were greeted by Courtney, Soter's hospitality director, and her dog, Big Mac! She welcomed us with a glass of their Brut Rose sparkling wine. Pink in color and dry in flavor, this was a refreshing way to begin our last tasting of the day. We sipped our sparkling wine and explored the grounds while waiting for the rest of the 4:30 guests to arrive. Once everyone was there, we gathered at the table in the photo and tried 3 more wines: The 2008 North Valley Pinot Noir, the 2009 Mineral Springs Ranch (an estate bottling) Pinot Noir, and the 2009 Mineral Springs Ranch "White Label" Pinot Noir (a reserve bottling, with the best grapes on the estate). All were delicious, easy drinking, full of flavor, and not too tart. The "White Label" pinot noir was incredible, but also retails for $85. We ended up buying three bottles of the less expensive North Valley pinot noir - one 2008, which we had tasted, and 2 bottles of the 2009, which was the vintage that ranked # 23 in
Portland Monthly magazine's top 50 Oregon red wines for 2011. Being a younger wine, we plan to drink those sometime next year, and enjoy the 2008 sooner.
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Salad of Cannellini Beans and Albacore Conserva |
After wrapping things up at Soter, CW and I hit the road for the hour long drive back to Portland. Earlier in the day, we had secured a dinner reservation at
Nostrana, a casual Italian place that has some great reviews and whose chef, Cathy Whims, was a finalist for a 2011
James Beard Award for
Best Chef: Northwest. The menu is very simple here, focusing on wood-fired pizzas, simple house-made pastas, and a handful of meat dishes each day. We had heard raves about the pizza so decided to split a pie and an appetizer. For the starter, we chose the Salad of cannellini beans and albacore
conserva. Conserva refers to a preserving technique - fresh tuna is poached in olive oil or water and sealed with aromatics and seasonings in a jar of olive oil. The tuna was tossed with melt-in-your-mouth creamy white beans and accompanied by pickled carrots and celery, red onions, cauliflower, and a tangy lemon-based dressing. The dish was extremely fresh and inviting - the lemon dressing giving a puckering tang that was balanced by the smooth, buttery
cannellini beans and excellent olive oil.
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Funghi Verde Pizza |
Our appetites whetted by the yummy salad, CW and I were ready for the main course: the
Funghi verde pizza. This pie features shitake mushrooms, house made mozzarella, garlic, arugula,
pecorino sardo, and lemon oil. One funny thing that we immediately noticed was that the pizza came unsliced, with a metal pizza scissor to cut it with! This was a bit unwieldy until a couple of pieces had been removed, but I learned that pizzas are traditionally served uncut in Italy, so who am I to complain? This pizza was incredible! The crust was perfectly light without being too crispy, and the combination of savory cheese, earthy mushroom, peppery arugula, and lemon oil was so unique and delicious. I never would have imagined a role for lemon on a pizza, but it worked extremely well with the arugula. And the shaved
pecorino sardo on top.... divine. The size of the pizza was generous, especially considering it is priced at $13 and uses extremely fresh ingredients. Try as we did, CW and I could not eat the whole thing. But I did make sure to get every last bit of cheese and arugula off the leftover piece and pile it onto the last slice I did eat - the flavors were so good it would have been sad not to.
Sated and exhausted, we headed back to the hotel and turned in. Needed to get some rest for a day of beer tasting and more food in the morning!